The Best Looks From the Spring/Summer 2023 Couture Shows in Paris

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chanel spring summer 2023 couture finale

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The fashion schedule takes no prisoners, with an unrelenting stream of style coming left and right for fans and industry insiders alike to enjoy. Twice a year, couture week slows the pace down just a bit to fully display the finest craftsmanship in the sartorial world. This season, we’re looking forward to more glamour and opulence from tried and true names like Schiaparelli and Dior, plus Haider Ackermann’s return to the runway with his Jean Paul Gaultier guest couture collection and Robert Wun’s first couture show ever. Keep tabs on this space as we update with all the best looks of the week.

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Chanel

Paris is synonymous with Chanel, and the two came together as the fashion gods intended with a collection of long and short coat dresses, animal-inspired embroidery, menswear details like bow ties and top hats, and, of course, the soon-to-be It wedding dress of 2023 at the Grand Palais Éphémère in Paris, alongside grandiose sculptures by artist Xavier Veilhan that call to mind Where the Wild Things Are. Pure fantasy!—Claire Stern, digital deputy editor

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Gucci ‘Hortus Deliciarum’ High Jewelry

In the midst of all the stunning couture being flaunted down the runways in Paris, Gucci debuted its newest high jewelry collection entitled “Hortus Deliciarum” (translation: Garden of Delights). And what a delight it is, with the iconic Italian brand flexing its unparalleled craftsmanship through the rich storytelling of nature-inspired jewels. Take, for instance, the technically flawless mandarin garnet pendant with dainty emerald and diamond filigree set on a geometric chain necklace (pictured here), which almost looks like a starburst or beautiful poppy ensconced in leaves. The rich, dazzling colors of the collection and its stunning cuts and bezels catch the light just as a beautiful, sunny garden would: unique on each day, never to be replicated, and as symmetrical and enchanting as nature itself.—Kevin LeBlanc, fashion associate

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Gucci ‘Hortus Deliciarum’ High Jewelry

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Giambattista Valli

Always one to celebrate decadence, Giambattista Valli’s couture show dazzled with ultra-voluminous dresses, liquid metallics, and beautiful, bright pastels. Old Hollywood reigned supreme with gowns destined for the red carpet. Sparkles, feathers, and florals combined for the perfect equation of what makes the Giambattista Valli brand what it is: unapologetically feminine, timelessly youthful, and boldly elegant.—Madison Rexroat, fashion and accessories assistant

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Dior

Inspired by Josephine Baker’s lesser-known side, Dior’s couture collection exuded easy 1920s elegance. These are pieces any woman with impeccable taste (and the budget to match) could wear day-to-day, and some into the night. There were certainly nods to the flashiness of the decade and Baker’s performance wear, albeit subtle. Beaded fringe, sequined midi dresses, and rich velvet gowns gave the collection some pizzazz, while double-breasted coats and tailored skirt suits offered a sense of modernized heirloom dressing that customers today crave.—Madison Rexroat, fashion and accessories assistant

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Schiaparelli

Lions, leopards, and she-wolfs, oh my! Schiaparelli kicked off couture week on a surrealist foot with creative director Daniel Roseberry’s latest offering for the storied house. He drew inspiration from Dante’s “Inferno,” hence the massive, man-made replicas of animal heads (donned by Kylie Jenner in the front row). The collection stripped away most of the Schiaparelli-isms we’re familiar with: over-the-top glamour, sparkle, golden nipples, and lips were all replaced instead with masterful tailoring, genius breastplates that doubled as shields, and elegant taffeta and velvet gowns that are dying for their day in the sun (read: the Oscars). Roseberry believes the doubt Dante endures while traveling further into hell mirrors that of the doubt many creatives face when making decisions and pushing boundaries. Apart from the (faux) animal heads, the real and the fake blur to create a less in-your-face, more considered collection that is a silent shout (or roar, if you like).—Kevin LeBlanc, fashion associate

Kevin LeBlanc is the Fashion Associate at ELLE Magazine.

Deputy Editor Claire Stern is the Deputy Editor of ELLE.com.

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