Wednesday, September 11, 2024

The Best Looks From Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2024

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victoria beckham  runway paris fashion week womenswear springsummer 2024

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Victoria Beckham

Inspired by the English countryside, her own dance history, and the coinciding launch of her eponymous fragrance line, Victoria Beckham’s spring/summer 2024 collection showed an elegant balance of feminine and masculine dressing. Blazers over knee-length shorts, styled with brogues and knee-high socks, paid homage to country sport culture, while sheer and silk gowns with stitched-on bosoms cascaded down the runway. Knit bodysuits with oversized sweaters—or sweaters with plunging wire necklines—added a sense of leisure to the collection. Edges of shorts and dresses were scalloped and field jackets were styled sans (visible) pants with just the slightest cinch at the waist—after all, femininity isn’t exclusively held to lace and bows all the time. The collection was trendy in a way that still felt luxurious. Different looks could easily work as staples or statement pieces and stand the test of time, because despite fitting in with today’s vision of fashion, most pieces are subtle twists on traditional practicality, which is as about as English as anything.—Madison Rexroat, fashion & accessories assistant

Estrop//Getty Images

victoria beckham  runway paris fashion week womenswear springsummer 2024

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Victoria Beckham

Estrop//Getty Images

victoria beckham  runway paris fashion week womenswear springsummer 2024

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Victoria Beckham

Estrop//Getty Images

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isabel marant runway springsummer 2024 paris fashion week

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Isabel Marant

With her spring/summer 2024 collection, Isabel Marant proved that just because the season is (apparently) all about lightness, it doesn’t mean you can’t have a dark side, too. Romantic embroidered sheer dresses and oversized jackets brought the bohemian sensibility true to Marant’s brand, while slouchy tweed-like sweaters were styled with leather hot pants, a trend we’ve seen from more than one brand for next season. Low-rise trousers, cargos, and even boiler suits displayed another trend for the season, while flouncy printed dresses and catsuits with cutouts made the collection all Marant’s own. There were paillette skirts and dresses and embroidered two-tone denim, floor length cargo jackets and draped leather dresses. It’s a collection for travelers and partygoers, just as much as it is for homebodies and daydreamers.—Madison Rexroat, fashion & accessories assistant

Victor VIRGILE//Getty Images

isabel marant runway springsummer 2024 paris fashion week

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Isabel Marant

Victor VIRGILE//Getty Images

isabel marant runway springsummer 2024 paris fashion week

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Isabel Marant

Victor VIRGILE//Getty Images

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chloe runway ss24

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Chloé

It was the final curtain of Gabriela Hearst’s formative tenure at Chloé, and boy did she deliver. Her farewell collection exuded all of the elegance, confidence, and femininity that define the iconic French house, but also stayed true to the aesthetics and values that distinguish her as a designer. Her championship of sustainability was subtly referenced through a botanical theme, which translated into bunches of ruffles unfurling like vines and draped chiffon panels stemming from models’ chests like flowers in bloom. And with an almost entirely black and white palette, punctuated by occasional bursts of yellow, coral, and silver, the focus remained on the inventive, yet wearable silhouettes that Hearst has come to master. Instead of bidding a tearful adieu, she danced off the runway alongside one of Brazil’s premiere samba schools, showing her audience that this was not a moment to mourn—it was a moment to celebrate the indelible mark she left on the brand.—Elena Plumb, freelance fashion assistant

photo: Carlo Scarpato / Gorunway.com

chloe runway ss24

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Chloé

photo: Carlo Scarpato / Gorunway.com

chloe runway ss24

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Chloé

photo: Carlo Scarpato / Gorunway.com

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paco rabannewomenswear summer 2024fashion show

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Paco Rabanne

Warriors of the past met ready-to-wear of the future at Rabanne’s SS24 show. In what you might expect to see in Dune or Game of Thrones’ Essos, Julien Dossena created a world of ancient futurism. Intricate chainmail dresses and headpieces acted as armor for models as they traipsed down the runway, accessorizing with metallic gladiator sandals and bold forearm cuffs. Draped skirts and dresses were teamed with slouchy pants or hoodies and blazers with cutouts. The materials offered an element of surprise: hanging baubles were an ASMR-lover’s dream, while fuzzy pants, tinseled shorts, and full sequin looks are guaranteed to bring shoppers to stores so they can simply touch the pieces. Rabanne also loves an art collaboration, and this season it was with photographer Jean Clemmer, whose 1992 nearly-nude portraits were printed on tank tops. Overall, the collection was a feast for not just the eyes but all the senses, and a demonstration of the future (and history) of power dressing.—Madison Rexroat, fashion & accessories assistant

YANNIS VLAMOS

paco rabannewomenswear summer 2024fashion show

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Paco Rabanne

YANNIS VLAMOS

paco rabannewomenswear summer 2024fashion show

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Paco Rabanne

YANNIS VLAMOS

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acne studios ss24

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Acne Studios

Acne Studios brought the party to L’Observatoire de Paris, debuting its SS24 collection against the backdrop of an enormous, shattered disco ball. An electronic soundtrack transformed the runway into a dance floor—a space of relinquished inhibitions and liberation, which served as guiding themes in designer Jonny Johansson’s creative process. The collection was rife with signature house motifs such as cracked leather and acid wash denim, but balanced by romantic chiffon draping and flowy silhouettes. This raw-edged, yet feminine essence was further conveyed through allusions to photographer Katerina Jebb’s “Physical Evidence of a Woman,” which captures the packs of false eyelashes, jumbled heaps of pantyhose, and other trinkets that a busy woman leaves in her wake. With another impressive showcase, Acne once again proved that there is beauty in the unfiltered and imperfect.—Elena Plumb, freelance fashion assistant

Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com

acne studios ss24

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Acne Studios

Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com

acne studios ss24

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Acne Studios

Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com

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undercover runway springsummer 2024 paris fashion week

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Undercover

This season, Jun Takahashi of Undercover explored what it means to grieve, both privately and publicly. All of the looks were either sheathed in delicate silk or constructed in such a way to expose what’s underneath. The opening pieces were gossamer-thin, with ephemera placed in between layers, showing what we gather over time, whether flowers, cards, or even spiders. The finale dresses contained blooms and insects, and then the lights went off, revealing dresses that were carrying terrariums with live butterflies inside, because sometimes we need a little extra life and joy.—Kevin LeBlanc, fashion associate

Victor VIRGILE//Getty Images

undercover runway springsummer 2024 paris fashion week

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Undercover

Victor VIRGILE//Getty Images

undercover runway springsummer 2024 paris fashion week

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Undercover

Victor VIRGILE//Getty Images

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dries van noten ss24

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Dries Van Noten

Thank God for Dries Van Noten. His unflappable approach to dressing women has garnered him cult status and a flock of customers who trust that he will deliver on pieces that stand the test of time. For spring, he looked at preppy staples like chinos, rugby shirts, and cable-knit sweaters and turned them into slightly perverse, undone pieces that mixed and matched to brilliant effect. His color combinations still remain the best in the game, and he meets the season of “real clothes” with an answer that is, yes, shoppable and wearable, but also proposes genuinely novel ideas without losing sight of his core customer.—Kevin LeBlanc, fashion associate

Courtesy of Dries Van Noten

dries van noten

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Dries Van Noten

Courtesy of Dries Van Noten

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